I travelled through Java for a month and did visited many cool places, but my favourite by far was Yogyakarta in the west. It is a glorious mix of the spiritual, the cultural and the historical, and it’s one of the best foodie places in Indonesia. Here’s my curated roundup of the best things to do in Yogyakarta.

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Best Hotels to Stay in Yogyakarta

Climb Borobudur Temple

Borobudur is the largest Hindu temple in the world, and is second only to Ankor Wat as the largest religious complex (Ankor Wat is a mixture of Hindu and Buddhist).

Climbing this 9th-century temple is one of the must-do activities when visiting Yogyakarta. If possible, get there early for the pre-dawn ticket and watch the sunrise from the top.

One of the unusual things about climbing Borobudur is that it’s compulsory to wear the Upunat sandals provided. They are handmade from pandanus leaves, with their shape modelled on a carving at the temple. Showing that there is nothing new in this world, research proved the shape helped protect the temple’s stones.

Wander Malioboro Street

Malioboro Street is the heartbeat of Yogyakarta. It runs for 2.5 km from the train station in the north to the Kraton (Sultan’s palace) in the south. Built by Dutch settlers in the 18th century, the name derives from Sanskrit, meaning ‘street adorned with flowers’.

Malioboro Street is a UNESCO Heritage Site, not because of its tourist attractions, but for its part in the spiritual alignment of Yogyakarta. A mystical ley line runs from Mount Merapi through the Kraton (see below) to the mythical home of an important sea goddess living in the Indian Ocean.

Today, it is a vibrant shopping and food area. At night, the street comes alive with street food sellers and musicians. Vendors selling souvenirs like batik, traditional puppets, and leather goods set up stalls.

Unusually for Indonesia, Malioboro Street is pedestrian-friendly and perfect to explore on foot. If you fancy a rest, try a horse-drawn carriage ride, or hail a becak, the traditional pedal cabs which ply their trade here.

Visit the Kraton (Sultan’s Palace)

Yogya is officially called the Special Region of Yogyakarta because it is the only sultanate still recognised in Indonesia. The Kraton, in the city’s heart, is the home of the current Sultan.

The Kraton’s design places it at the centre of the cosmology of Yogya. It is a key part of a spiritual alignment which is recognised by UNESCO. This leads from the sacred volcano Mount Merapi through the Kraton to the Indian Ocean, home of the Indonesian goddess Nyai Roro Kidul.

The Kraton contains two ceremonial Sitihinggil pavilions. They hold important ceremonies, such as coronations and the reception of important guests, here. Prince (now King) Charles and Princess Diana visited the Kraton in 1988.

The Kraton is open to visitors from 9am to 3pm Tuesday to Sunday.

Pro Tip – Early visits are better as there are fewer visitors, and between 9am and 11 am, a show, which varies daily, showcases an aspect of Javanese culture.

Eat Gudeg on a Street Food Tour

Yogya’s food scene is renowned throughout Indonesia, and there’s no better way to introduce its delicacies than on a food tour. These curated tours take you to the best street food vendors and give you a whistle-stop tour of Yogya’s incredible cuisine.

If you try nothing else, you must try Gudeg, Yogya’s signature dish. The base is young jackfruit, which is simmered for hours in palm sugar and coconut milk. This gives it a sweet and savoury flavour and ensures that the jackfruit has a silky texture. Add to this rice, chicken, egg, and sambel krecek, crackers made from cow skin, and it’s a dish you’ll never forget.

Other highlights include kopi jos, coffee that has a red-hot lump of charcoal added to it. Also, try lumpia samijaya, a spring roll crafted from root vegetables and coated with a layer of garlic (for added kick, bite into a chili while eating).

Discover Taman Sari Water Castle

The Taman Sari Water Castle sits close to the Sultan’s Palace. The sultan, Hamengkubuwono I, built it in the 19th century as a pleasure garden. A mixture of bathing pools and pavilions, this was where the ladies of the royal court would bathe away from prying eyes. Well, all eyes bar those of the Sultan.

The Water Castle suffered earthquake damage, a recurring theme in Jogja, in 1867, which marked the end of its time as a functional royal palace. Further damaged in 2006, it could do with some TLC, but still maintains its serenity. It’s easy to imagine it in its heyday.

Drive a neon go-kart around Alun Alun Kidul

One of the best things to do in YogYakarta is pedalling an odong-odong decorated with neon unicorns or dinosaurs around the large square of Alun Alun Kidul. These pedal cars are great fun, although navigating them through the traffic around the square can be entertaining.

The vast grass square is lovely in itself. It’s a real locals’ hangout, and you’ll see families picnicking under its giant banyan trees. Surrounding the square are a host of street food vendors selling everything from seafood through satay to ice cream.

A local tradition at the square is the test of ‘Masuk diantara beringin’. If you can walk between the two banyan trees which dominate the square, you have a pure heart and will have your wishes granted? Easy? You have to do it blindfolded.

Explore Prambanan Temple

Considered by many to be the most beautiful Hindu temple in the world, the Prambanan temple complex sprawls over 30 square kilometres. The site consists of 3 main temples dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma. Alongside these are three corresponding temples to their sacred mounts (Nandi, a divine white bull, Garuda, half man, half eagle, and Hamsa, a sacred swan). Around 240 other temples of varying size and completeness (because of earthquake damage) complete the site.

The temple is over 1000 years old and looks similar to Ankor Wat, with soaring temples reaching a height of 47 meters. However, they are architecturally very different.

The complex is so large, you could spend a whole day there, or cherry pick the key parts over an hour with one of the excellent local guides (budget more time to see other parts).

Pro Tip: The complex draws hordes of tourists (1.2 million a year). Choose off-peak hours. Early and late visits are quieter, and the light will be better for seeing the temple carvings. Also, Monday is maintenance day. Important sections are off-limits at this time, so avoid if possible.

Watch Mount Merapi Erupt

Mount Merapi is Indonesia’s most active volcano and is continuously erupting. The last major event was as recent as 2010, when 341 people died. On a scale of 1 to 4, where 4 means run for your life, it currently sits at a 3. This means that it’s forbidden to climb the volcano itself.

Fortunately, there’s an alternative. You can hike to a nearby viewpoint (about 3km from Merapi). Climbing to this lookout point after dark gives superb views of the lava being thrown out by Merapi and flowing down its side.

Getting to the spot involves a 45-60 minute climb (depending on fitness) up stone stairs, but it is worth the effort. There is a small shrine at the top, and also a giant rock thrown from the volcano during an eruption.

Try Batik Making

Batik is a traditional dyeing technique for which Java in general, and Yogya in particular, is famous. Dye-resistant wax is applied to areas of the cloth, which is then dipped into a vat of dye. The parts of the cloth without the dye absorb the colour, while the waxed areas don’t. This process, repeated with different colours, builds complex and highly symbolic patterns.

One of the best things to do in Jogjakarta is a Batik making workshop. Try your hand at this ancient craft with professional artists. Various options are available, from an hour course to a full day. Best of all, you get to take your masterpiece home with you.

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